Closure Looms Over Isiolo’s 60-Year-Old Safari Bar, Birthplace of Nyama Choma

Isiolo's Safari Bar and Restaurant, a landmark establishment credited with popularising Kenya’s iconic roasted meat dish, nyama choma, is facing imminent closure following a legal challenge to the government's enforcement of alcohol regulations near schools. 

Achoro Ventures Limited, the company operating Safari Bar, is contesting a directive from the Ministry of Interior, arguing the closure order is procedurally flawed and jeopardises a significant element of Kenya's culinary heritage. The legal battle stems from a renewed government crackdown, initiated in November 2024, targeting alcohol sales near educational institutions. 

The directive, issued by the Principal Secretary for Interior, seeks to enforce the Alcoholic Drinks Control Act, which has been in effect since 2010 but inconsistently applied across the country. Safari Bar was identified in a newspaper report as one of the outlets earmarked for closure under this directive. In response, Achoro Ventures lodged a petition, claiming the closure order violated principles of fair administrative action. 

Alex Thuranira, a director at Achoro Ventures, argued the company received no prior notice or opportunity to appeal the decision, despite operating lawfully for six decades with valid licences and regulatory compliance. However, Justice Sophie Chirchir dismissed the application, affirming the Ministry’s actions were within the bounds of existing law. 

In her judgement, Justice Chirchir said the directive constituted an implementation of existing law, not a new policy requiring public consultation or prior hearings. She clarified that a valid licence does not protect a business from enforcement actions if statutory provisions are breached. 

Justice Chirchir also said the Principal Secretary's communication served as a reminder to county commissioners to uphold the law, rather than introducing new regulations, noting the renewed directive resulted from inconsistent enforcement of the Act. Safari Bar and Restaurant’s history dates back to 1964, when Pritam Singh, an immigrant entrepreneur, established the business. 

Singh, who later sold the business to Julius Thiribi, is credited by some with coining the term "nyama choma" – allegedly derived from his pronunciation of "nyama ya kuchoma". Over the decades, Safari Bar has become a social and gastronomic institution in Isiolo.